It took the Norwegian
sail training ship Christian Radich an hour and a half
to get from her Pier 15 berth to the open Gulf of Mexico on her
auxiliary diesel engine. To the passengers on the five-hour "mini-cruise"
last Tuesday, it was worth the wait.
Soon after she cleared the jetties, orders were barked fore and
aft in Norwegian, and the full-rigger's crew of merchant marine
and naval cadets, some only 15 years old, scrambled nimbly up
the ratlines, laid out onto the yards, and began loosing her
1,330 square meters of canvas.
They obeyed the orders without the slightest hesitation, despite
the fact that quite a few of the more lubberly passengers were
having trouble staying afoot on the solid deck, as the ship porpoised
through moderately rough seas.
Rough seas or no, to be under full sail on a picture-book square-rigger
right out of Robert Louis Stevenson is an experience not to be
forgotten.
As the sails billowed out under the brisk north wind, the three
cadets at the great wooden wheel (for it takes three to handie
it) pointed her bow southward.
Faster and faster, she cut through the green Gulf, slicing the
waves with a splash and swirlof foam. Encountering larger swells,
she would ride them up to the crest until her bowsprit seemed
about to punch a hole in the sky, then coast down the other side,
in a very ladylike manner -- none of the belly-whopping, soul-drenching
crashes of flatter-bottomed craft.
It was not hard to see how this graceful white three-master had
won several tall ships races. The only sounds, once the little
diesel was cut off, were the swash-slap of the water past the
square-rigger's hull, and the harplike music of the wind in the
intricate rigging. Indeed, the whole ship vibrated under its
touch, as if alive.
It was everyone's dream of running away to sea come true. One
woman brought her accordion with her, and strolled the decks
playing old sea chanties. And the cadets sang "Blow the
Man Down: as they hauled up the "spanker"sail at the
ship's stern.
To the west was the skyline of Galveston, low and hazy; to the
east and ahead to the south, the empty horizon of the trackless
sea.
But the trackless sea was for the cadets and officers of the
Radich to explore; Tuesday's passengers, about 100
of them, had much more mundane obligations back in Houston and
Galveston.
So it was that, much too soon, the Radich was coaxed back
north, back between the jetties, past the seemingly envious tankers
and container ships in the channel anchorage, and into her berth
The voyage was over, and as Long John Silver, John Paul Jones
and Jean Lafitte swaggered down the gangplank, they suddenly
became the banker, the lawyer the bookkeeper -- and the reporter
-- once again. Heaving a rueful sigh, they looked back at the
ruddy, blue-uniformed sailors whose world this really was.
But though they had left the sea, it had not left them, and as
they climbed into bed that night, they could still feel the gentle
roll of the deck under them.
And smiling, they let it rock them to sleep. |
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